Indian hand block prints

Dear All,



    This is a small study by me and my friends.

its a dedicated work by each artisans so we shall join our hands by promoting ourselves in this hand block prints we are trying to get ourselves into this so we never let our traditional wealth to pass away.......................................................








Hand Block - Resist/Dabu Printing of Kala Dera, Rajasthan

The Resist Process called Dabu is used here involves using wax or gum clay mixed with resin. With the help of brush or block or by hand this is applied to the portions of the cloth. The color is then applied to it. The wax is then washed off in hot or flowing water and the applied colour moves into this area to give a diffused effect. This process is some what similar to the batik procees. Now Block printing is done on the portion of the cloth where the original colour is retained. The fabric is highlighted by printing Specific outlines and patterns against the contrast colour. Due to the use of wax the designs get a broken appearance like batik due to the leakage of colour once the resist is washed off. The small Chaubundi print in indigo is famous in Bagru.

Dyes used in the Process : Vegetable Dyes and Kashish Dyes

Products Available : Chanderi Stoles and Dupattas, Mangalgiri Salwar Suits and Sarees, Maheshwari Salwar Suits and Sarees, Tussar Salwar Suits and Sarees, Georgette Sarees, Chiffon Sarees, Printed fabrics in Khadi cotton and Khadi Silk, Printed Cottons in Voile and Sheeting.

Hand Block Printing - Ajrak of Gujarat

The Ajrak resist-printing technique is found in Anjar and Dhamadka in Kutch. The painted Ajrak cloth has colours - blue, red, black and white, in several patterns --- resembling those found at Fostat. The printed red and block odhnis of Anjar carry motifs similar to those found on old pottery and stone carvings.

Hand Block Printing - Ajrak of Rajasthan

In Rajasthan, there are sandy stretches of desert where a unique method of cloth-dyeing prevails. The technique is called Ajrakh and the print is in dark shades of blue and red with geometrical patterns on both sides of the fabric. The technique is a complicated one and the steps include preparatory washing, application of mordant, resist printing, de-gumming, and dyeing. The resist substances used are gach (a mud resist) and kariyana, which is a mixture of the gum of the babul tree and chuna or lime. The lime provides a smooth texture and prevents the resist from cracking.

After the final dyeing the cloth is sun-dried. It is dipped every night in a cow-dung solution and kept under a stone all night. Washing is done the next morning in the river and the drying is done on the sand. When half-dry, water is sprinkled on the cloth continuously. On the third day, the cloth is finally washed in the river, brought to the work-place and dried.

Hand Block Printing - Kalamkari of Andhra

Kalamkari is the earliest and more complex techniques of block-printing on cloth using vegetable dyes. This flourished at Masulipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. The origin of the word kalamkari is from kalam or pen and kari or work. The kalamkari done here is a mixture of painting and hand-printing. This craft was started in the old city of Golconda after which it spread along the eastern coast up to Tamil Nadu. Originally known as Coromandel chintz, the textiles produced here are famous the world over.

The process followed is complex and intricate, and the blocks used are made by specialist artisans. These blocks have very detailed and elaborate designs carved on them. The fastness of the colours is ensured by washing, bleaching, and sunning. Mordants like alum are used to fix the colours onto the cloth. Wax is used as the resist agent when a combination of colours are used to embellish different parts of the design. The wax-resist is hand-printed on to the fabric with a kalam or pen made of an iron loop attached to a bamboo stick. This step is done before the application of indigo. After the wax is removed by boiling, other colours are applied. The detailed colouring is done with a brush. Running water is used for washing and the process takes several days, weeks, or months depending on the length of the cotton cloth.

This craft reached its zenith during British rule and was also in high demand as dress and furnishing material in Europe and Southeast Asia. The motifs used were floral and animal designs. The Persian influence on the designs is visible: ornamental birds, flowers, creepers, and mehrabs or archways found chiefly in Mughal architecture are common.

Hand Block Printing of Bagh, Madhya Pradesh

Bagh, which lends its name to the Bagh prints is a small tribal town in Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh. The khatri community, who comprise the 'chhipas' or printers came here about 400 years ago from Larkana is Sind which is famous for its Ajrak prints. Bagh's proximity to the river was an important reason for its choice as flowing river water is vital to the process of printing. The design repertoire of Bagh prints covers geometrical and floral compositions and the blocks used for stamping are intricately and deeply carved by block-makers in Pethapur in Gujarat.

Bagh layouts are dramatic in the use of black and red alternately on a white background. The black colour is prepared with ferrous sulphate mixed with tamarind seed powder and glue which is cooked in water and stored for use. Each sari takes a minimum of three weeks to complete after the design is printed. During his period it is washed at last three times and sent to the bhatti or oven at least twice. Two persons stand knee deep in water to wash the fabric so that superfluous colour is removed. The fabric / sari is boiled in a cauldron of water on a bhatti with regulated heat for the colour to emerge. This is extremely painstaking.

The fabric used originally was cotton, though now saw tassar, crepe, and silk are being used with excellent results. Every process used is manual and though the techniques and designs are age-old they have a contemporary appeal.

Hand Block Printing of Bagru, Rajasthan

The block print in Bagru is done mainly in beige, red and black. Shades of blue with much use of indigo blue dyeing processes is a characteristic of this centre. Bagru is also famous for its mud resist process Dabu and direct printing. The motifs are simple and include floral and linear patterns.

Bagru Print Paisley Border

Hand Block Printing of Balotra, Rajasthan

The traditional block-printing running in parallel lines technique of Ajrakh has attained a peak of excellence at Balotra. Although a desert climate but good water is one of the main reasons which imparts good colors which is so important for hand-block printing. The speciality of the block printing of Balotra is that it is done on both sides of the cloth. This is very diffult technique because there should not be any imbalance in the design-transfer from the block to the cloth. The reverse side hand block printing is done simultenously even when the other side of the design print is wet. The hand-block printed fabric from Balotra is therefore very exclusive and relatively expensive.

Hand Block Printing of Barmer, Rajasthan

Barmer, is famous for it hand block print. The prints are inspired from the Sind region. Various items that are made in Barmer are turbans, sarees and traditonally worn lungis, Head gear and shoulder cloth made are worn by Sindhi Muslims. The designs in Barmer are bold, the popular one being the chirkala booti which is a flaming red chilli having a blue-black outline surrounded by flower-laden trees.

Hand Block Printing of Jahota, Rajasthan

Villages of Jahota in Jaipur are famous for the jahota hand block printing. It is believed that Maharaja Jai Singh and his wife uplifted this art amongst the local artists. They both took interest amongst the art and the people involved in this field.

Today also artists perform the work with all the inherited skills from the ancestors. These artists first carve the design on the wooden blocks with their fine tolls. Later using the natural and chemical dyes they print the motif on the fabric. In this fashion savvy world the artists have started designing to the demands of buyers and natural dyes have also been replaced by chemical dyes. Jahota is famous for its chilani print, tradtionally worn by brides in certain communities.

Hand Block Printing of Jaipur, Rajasthan

Most of the Block Printing is done in Sanganer and bagru. Kalamkari Prints and floral motifs with pastel colors are done on the fabric. In kalamkari print normally four to five colors are used. jaipur not being the biggest centre for hand block print is a trading centre for the craft and you can find local shops in Bapu Bazar Nehru bazar and Johari Bazar all selling various hand block printed items.

Textiles of Jammu & Kashmir

Masnads and jamas are block printed floor coverings and considered very comfortable. The designs are attractive floral and geometrical patterns. Another popular craft is the Calico prints from Samba.

Wooden Block Making for Hand Printing

Hand- block printing is practiced mostly all overIndia and every region has its own style and colour scheme. Pilakhua in Uttar-Pradesh has craftsperson’s making brass blocks and using it for outlining the design. In Jaipur the craftspersons carve the wooden blocks on sagoon wood. Later the carved portion is dipped in the colour and then printed over the fabric.

Pethapur in Gujarat remains an important centre for block printing. Today the craft is declining because of mills.




Thanks/ Regards,

Karthikeyan.J(9986011136)
Fashion designer/ Fashion consultant